Thomas and I are finishing up our last day at the River Country Campground in Gadsden, Alabama.

camper

The weather was unbelievably pleasant every day with lows at night in the low 60’s.  We spend most mornings fishing right here outside the camper.

camper view1 camper view 2 campground gardens

Fishing results were quite dismal with the occasional catfish and the ubiquitous brim (the smallest I have ever seen).  My mom, Jean, won the prize for most unusual catches with three turtles this week.  One must have been close to 50 lbs – 15″ x 24″ so she and Thomas said – I never saw it and you all know how fish/turtle tales go.  Next time, Mom, remember that your cell phone has a camera!  As always, for me the best part of fishing is relaxing outside watching the water, the birds, the boats, the whatever is outside.

Other highlights of our week:

  • Ribs at the Cornelius’  – Cindy always smokes up a feast and it’s a great way to get her boys to stop by for a visit.
  • Ray and Suzie McElvy’s Visit – They rode the HUGE Honda Gold Star motorcycle over from Birmingham. We played cards almost 11 PM, and then made an emergency run to the 24-hr Wal-mart to pick them up some extra layers to keep them warm for the return trip.  Since it was late (after 10 pm) when we returned to the campground, we had to “break in” to get their bike.  Ray was able to sneak out without much disturbance – I never new those things could actually run quietly!
  • Camping with Thomas – Turns out that he is adept, efficient, and enormously helpful in setting up, organizing, cooking, cleaning, and in general maintaining the campsite.  Wonder if he could be available for our Montana trip?  Here’s a pic of relaxing in the AM with my mom, Jean.  Oh, yes, I can’t forget to thank him for finally teaching me about F11.

    IMG_9393

  • Mom’s Sewing – Custom sheets for the camper were around $150 / set.  Mom took a $39 set, cut them down, and perfectly fitted them for our camper “king” beds.  We will now sleep in style!  While she was at it, she also custom fit two pillow cases, hemmed my camping pants, and repaired a ripped backpack pouch. Thanks again for your skills and effort!

    sheets

  • Nina’s Exploits -  Swimming in Lake Gadsden (that was before the monster turtle was caught), playing with neighbor campdog Bella, chasing the ball and Frisbee at the Cornelius estate, tossing around a flopping brim, and her first 5+ mile hike.
  • campdog
  • Test Hike with New Backpack – Gossamer G4 (14 oz)  I used a gallon jug with water to simulate the full load.  Thomas helped with adjustments and weight distribution.  I wasn’t convinced at first that this floppy, 16 oz parachute bag was going to be workable, but I am beginning to accept some of this crazy light-weighting philosophy.

Gossamer G4http://www.gossamergear.com/cgi-bin/gossamergear/G4.html I hiked from the campground to the trail behind Gadsden Mall that goes around Neeley Henry Lake. It was a gorgeous morning with great white egrets and blue herons fishing for breakfast.   Now if I can get the laces on my Salomon cross trainers adjusted, I think I’ll be ready for some serious hiking.

I wish you well – especially Joe and Brandy on their baseball trip ritual and Pete and Dotty on their granddog delivery mission to Calgary.  Until my next adventure,  Beth

Kim Laube SPEED FEED MODEL 305 – FAQ

Q. Where do I oil?

A. You oil the teeth of the cutter blade & then wipe clean before, during & after grooming.

Q. How do I remove the Cutter Blade?

A. Push the cutter blade back away from the trimmer using both thumbs. Be sure and do this over a soft surface so you do not drop the blade and break the teeth.

Q. How do I attach the Cutter Blade?

A. Move the lever to the #9 setting on back of trimmer, set the blade peg into the trimmer notch and snap toward the trimmer.

Q. Are these Cutter blades sharpenable?

A. Yes, they can be sharpened a few times by qualified sharpeners (please call). Then they should be thrown away. Reorder item#LA30501 steel or #LA30502 ceramic.

Q. Can I clean the blades in between grooms?

A. Yes, this is a must as hair can and will build up in between the teeth and cause your blade not to cut properly. Use Laube blade dip (#LA303712). Run your cutter blade in the dip while the trimmer is on and running, be sure the trimmer is in the downward position so the liquid DOES NOT runs down the motor. This can ruin your motor and void your warranty. Wipe all visible residue off before turning back upright. If hair is caught In between teeth try using a small zip tie and run through to push the hair out.

Q. How do I know when the batteries are charged?

A. The light will eventually turn from red, orange, yellow, then green. When green your battery is fully charged.

Q. How long does it take to charge my batteries?

A. There are two bays in your charging unit, a slow and a fast. The slow charge can take up to 6 – 24 hours in the beginning for a full 100% charge. The fast charge can take about ½ to 45 minutes for 80% battery charge. Conditions vary.

Q. Can I store my trimmer in the charging bay when finished charging?

A. Yes, you can leave your trimmer in the charging bay when finished charging, but it is always a good idea to remove when leaving for the evening or unattended for any length of time.

Q. I Cannot remove my battery, what am I doing wrong?

A. The batteries are locked in placed so they do not fall out, be sure and press and hold the release button on the side of your trimmer while turning this will disengage the lock that is holding your battery.

Q. How do I use my cutter blade comb attachments?
A. These are used when you want to leave the coat on the animal you are grooming longer than what just the cutter blades will leave. Slide the lever on the back of the trimmer to #30 when using comb attachments. Use the combs with the grain (growth) of the hair for longer lengths and against the grain (growth) for shorter lengths.

Q. Do the speed feed batteries eventually wear out?
A. yes, your batteries do eventually wear out and should be replaced periodically (item#LA30505) the time period can vary.
Q. Why is my battery is no longer working or taking a charge? Or melted?
A. You may have set your battery on or too close to any type of metal surface or stainless steel table, or even a steel blade. This can damage the cells and cause your battery not to function properly and void your warranty.

Clipper Blade Useage Guide

Understanding what different types of clipper blades are capable of can make you a more efficient groomer. Familiarizing yourself with the following terms and types of blades will help.

Clipper Blades:
All clipper blades have two parts. The larger bottom blade, called the comb, feeds the hair into the top, or cutting, blade. The cutting blade is moved back and forth very quickly by the clipper motor to cut the hair.

Cut:
Length of hair left when cutting against the natural grain of the coat, or on a dog breed with an off-standing coat, such as a Poodle or Bichon Frise. Cutting with the grain of the coat on most breeds leaves it one clipper blade length longer. For instance, a #7 clipper blade leaves approximately 1/8″ hair when going against the grain, but will leave approximately 1/4″ when going with the grain.

Skip Tooth Clipper Blades:
Perfect for blending short areas with longer lengths. Ideal for coarse-coated breeds such as Terriers. The coarse or uneven teeth on a Skip Tooth will feed the hair into the cutting blade more effectively, which allows you to clip under mats. Often used before the bath for rough-cuts, and on dogs that must be shaved completely down.

Finishing/Full Cut Blades:
The teeth on this blade are even, creating a smoother finish. Can be used before and after the bath. Used for a smoother finish or full shavedowns.

Wide/T-Blades:
Cutting surface is wider than regular blades for larger breeds or faster stripdowns.

Surgical Blades:
Used by veterinarians to prep an area for surgery by removing hair down to the skin. Also used for show cuts on Poodles. Best blades to use with Snap-on combs.

Blade Size Cut Usage
50 1/125″ Surgical prep, Show Poodle’s feet, face and sometimes used to create patterns.
50SS 1/125″ Stainless steel—harder, holds edge longer, rust-resistant.
40 1/100″ Surgical prep, Show Poodle’s feet, face and pattern, Pet Poodle feet. Excellent for with Snap-on combs.
30 1/50″ Pet Poodle feet and between pads of some dogs. Good for using with Snap-on combs.
15 3/64″ Sensitive Poodle feet, pads, face on Poodles, Cockers and Terriers.
10 1/16″ Sanitary trim (tummy & genital area), face on Poodles, Cockers and Terriers, or grooming most cats. A very short, but safe blade.
Wide 10 3/32″ Similar to the size 10 blade, but with a wider blade sweep. Good for full-body shavedowns and large breeds.
T-84 3/16″ Stripping heavy coats, medium length, wider cutting surface than standard clipper blades.
9 5/64″ Sporting Breed’s necks and sometimes bodies, very smooth finish. Popular on Cockers, Springers and Schnauzer bodies.
8 1/2 7/64″ Head, face, neck and sometimes body on Sporting Breeds and Terriers.
7 1/8″ Skip tooth— body work on Sporting Breeds and Terriers, Pet Poodles, excellent for clipping matted dogs where blending is required.
7F/7FC 1/8″ Finish clipper blade for 7 Skip Tooth, unmatted coats.
5 1/4″ Skip Tooth, body work on Sporting Breeds and Terriers, Pet Poodles, body work on short trims on Lhasa Apsos and Shih-Tzus.
5F/5FC 1/4″ Finish blade for 5 Skip Tooth.
4 3/8″ Body work on the low-slung Terriers (West Highland White, Scottish, Cairn, etc.), Pet Poodles, short trims on Lhasa Apsos and Shih-Tzus.
4F/4FC 3/8″ Finish blade for 4 Skip Tooth – also used against the lie of the coat of thick-coated Springers or Cockers for a very short but very smooth look.
3 or
3 3/4
1/2″ Skip Tooth clipper blade, good for a plush, almost puppy look on Lhasas, Shih-Tzus, Old English Sheep Dogs – anything that you want to give a short, but not shaved look.
3 or
3 3/4FC
1/2″ Finish cClipper Blade for 3 3/4 Skip Tooth -can also be used against the grain as with the 4F and 4FC.
5/8 HT 5/8″ Finish Clipper Blade – good for slightly longer puppy cut.
3/4 HT 3/4″ Finish Clipper Blade – Longest blade cut available.
7/8 1/32″ Cutting surface is 7/8″ across. For small areas. Ideal for setting patterns such as the Dutch Clip on Miniature Poodles, great for small Poodle feet.
5/8 or 5/8 NC 1/32″ Cutting surface is 5/8″ across. For small areas. Ideal for setting patterns such as the Dutch Clip on Toy Poodles, great for small Poodle feet.

“Press This” WordPress Tool

Press This is a bookmarklet: a little app that runs in your browser and lets you grab bits of the web.

Use Press This to clip text, images and videos from any web page. Then edit and add more straight from Press This before you save or publish it in a post on your blog.

This link will take you to a page where you can get Press This.

Walking Your Dog

Walk your dog, do not let your dog walk you.

If you allow your dog to walk in front of you while on a lead you are reinforcing in the dog’s mind that the dog is alpha over you.  Leader goes first.  This can lead to many behavioral issues that some regard as a “Breed Trait” or “Personality” when actually it is just your dog in charge of it’s humans.  A dog walking in front does not drain their mental energy.  They are not relaxed and following, as they have a big responsibility to be leading the pack.  This mental anguish can build up inside of a dog.

Any dog who is walking out in front of their humans will begin to regard himself as the alpha of the group.  By making the dog heel beside or behind you, you are communicating to the dog that you are above them in the pecking order.

All dogs, regardless of size or breed, need to be taken on daily walks, jogs, runs, bike rides, rollerblading, any means you have to get your dog moving.  Taking your dog for a walk is an important ritual in keeping your dog mentally stable.  A dog, as an animal, is a walker/traveler by instinct.  Packs of dogs get up in the morning and walk.  Simply having a large back yard or taking your dog to the dog park is not going to satisfy this instinct in your dog.  As Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer says, “To your dog, your back yard is like a large fish bowl in which they are trapped inside.  Fish swim, birds fly and dogs walk.  Having a dog should not be about only fulfilling our human needs, we owe it to our dogs, to give them what THEY instinctually need.”

For a dog to be mentally stable, you as an owner must take your dog for daily walks to release mental and physical energy.   The proper way to walk a dog is the dog walking either beside you, or behind you, never in front of you.  This may seem petty in a human’s mind, however it means a lot in a dogs mind.  When a human allows a dog to walk in front of them, they are sending signals to the dog that he is leading the human.  The human is pack leader.  Instinct tells a dog that the leader goes first.  A lack of exercise, allowing the build up of the mental energy which a proper walk releases, and permitting a dog to be pack leader can cause many behavioral problems in a dog — such as hyper activity, neurotic, and/or obsessive compulsive behaviors, which are signs of a dog who is not mentally stable.  An unstable dog is not a happy dog.

Excitement in a dog is NOT a sign of happiness.  Dogs who act very excitedly when their humans come home are showing signs of a lack of exercise and or leadership.  For a dog, excitement does not indicate happiness.  In most cases it is a sign of a dog who is not mentally stable.  When you come home after being gone, avoided speaking to your dog in an excited manor.  If we see dogs has human, the thought of a dog’s excitement not being a sign of happiness, does not make sense, however, we must remember dogs are canines, not humans.

I have heard many people state that making a dog walk beside or behind them is mean.  Those who actually believe this are seeing the dog as having human traits.  It is actually more cruel to assume your dog is just like you in his feelings and instincts and not see him as the canine animal that he is.  Think outside the box and accept that your dog is an animal with different needs than a human.

Many people take their dogs out for a walk daily, however, the dog is walking in front of them.  Getting a dog to walk properly on a lead is not as hard as it may seem.  When getting ready to walk your dog, call the dog to you, do not go to the dog to put the lead on.  After the dog comes to you make him or her sit calmly before snapping on the lead or slipping on the collar.  Retractable leashes are not recommended, as they give the handler less control.

Take your dog to the front door and open the door.  Make the dog sit quietly, do not allow the dog to bolt out the door.  The dog needs to see you are the one deciding when it’s time to leave. As soon as your dog is sitting quietly at the exit it’s time to leave.  Be sure you exit the house before the dog, even if it’s just a step before the dog.

The collar should be far up on the neck, giving you more control over the dog.  Body harness are not recommended for walking dogs.  The harness goes around the strongest point on the dogs body making it difficult to control the dog.  Keeping the lead high up on the neck the same way they do in dog shows gives you more control with less effort.  There should be no tension in the lead.  Do not allow the dog to pull and don’t constantly pull on your dog. Relax.

The lead should be short and hang loose.  If the dog starts to pull, snap the lead to the side throwing him off balance.  If the dog starts getting too excited and your not keeping him beside or behind you, stop and make the dog sit.  Wait until he is calm than start again.  Do not call to the dog when you start walking again, just start walking.  Pack leaders do not call the pack to come with them, the pack instinctually follows.  The dog needs to learn he is following you, and tune into the person walking the dog.  Do not praise your dog for walking calmly.  This only creates excitement and you are more likely to pull your dog out of his calm, submissive mind.

The dog is not to sniff the ground and relieve themselves where they please; they are to concentrate on following their handler while walking.  The person walking the dog decides when the dog is allowed to sniff or pee, not the dog.  It is ok to allow your dog to sniff around and do his business, however, only when you decide it is ok.  The dog needs to see you are leading him, he is not leading you.

If you pass a barking dog or other distraction, keep moving forward.  If your dog averts it’s attention to the distraction, give a tug on the lead to avert the attention back to the walk at hand.  If the tug does not work you can also use your foot, not to kick the dog, but to touch him enough to snap his attention back on you.  If you find the dog pulling, stop and make the dog sit.  Correct any excited behavior over the distraction with a tug, and if that does not work you can also use a firm touch to the neck using your hand as a claw.  Do this as soon as you see the dog starting to avert his gaze toward the distraction, or as soon as you see a look in your dog’s eyes that tells you he is going to begin barking or growling.  Timing is everything.  This must be done right before the behavior happens or at the exact moment it starts.  You do not want to wait until it escalates.  If you wait too long before correcting a dog (were talking seconds), the dog may not even hear you; he will be too focused on the distraction.  When correcting your dog, match your dogs intensity.

Walk at a good pace, keeping your shoulders held high.  Dogs can sense tension or lack of confidence. Walk proud, like you are a strong leader.  A dog will respond to this, they will sense it.  Notice how there is no tension on the lead and the collar is up high on the neck

If you are going off to work for the day, the dog should be walked before you leave the house. This will put the dog into a rest mode for the time you are gone.  Dogs should also be walked before they eat, fulfilling the dog’s instinct to work for food.

Dogs, of all breeds and types, who are taken for daily walks, and who are made to walk beside or behind the owner, are less likely to be destructive, obsessive, have separation anxiety and/or dominancy issues, among many other behavior problems.  Dogs with higher energy should be taken for longer, more vigorous walks, some two or more times a day.  For a dog, walking is a primal instinct.  Fulfilling this need in your dog will make for a happier dog and happier owners.

Miniature Poodle

SIZE: Height:  11 – 15 inches  (28 – 38 cm)
Weight:  15 – 17 pounds  (7 – 8 kg)

DESCRIPTION: The Miniature Poodle’s coat can be either curly or straight.  All solid colors are permissible.  Examples: black, blue, silver, gray, cream, apricot, red, white, brown, or cafe-au-lait.  The tail is set high and docked to half its length or slightly less.  Dewclaws are generally removed.  The feet are small, oval and webbed, with arched toes.  The ears are long, flat, and wide, laying close to the head.  The eyes are black or brown, with a lively expression.  The head is long and the neck is solid and slightly arched.  A good Poodle has a square silhouette, with approximately the same length as the height at the withers.

BEHAVIOR: The Miniature Poodle is a cheerful, super smart, sensitive and highly trainable companion dog.  The breed is great at learning tricks.  The Poodle will love being a part of family activities.  They are very amusing and clever.  Many owners feel this dog understands speech in an uncanny way.  Some love to play with children.  Any effort the owner puts into training and socializing will be well rewarded.  They are very good watchdog for its size, seldom becoming aggressive. Poodles are friendly with other dogs and non-canine pets.

ACTIVITY LEVEL: The Miniature Poodle is good for apartment life.  Given enough exercise, they are not active in doors.  They will lay right next to you and are more sedate when indoor although they love to play outdoors and are a highly intelligent breed, so they do like lots of thoughtful activities to stimulate their mentality.  They will do okay without a yard.  Miniature Poodles need a daily walk.   Play will take care of a lot of their exercise needs, however, as with all breeds, play will not fulfill their primal instinct to walk. Dogs who do not get to go on daily walks are more likely to display behavior problems. They will also enjoy a good romp in a safe open area off lead, such as a large fenced in yard. They adore water and love sessions of play.

Life Expectancy: About 12-15 years.

GROOMING: Extensive grooming is needed. They must be bathed regularly and clipped every six to eight weeks. The ears should be checked regularly for mites and the ear hair should be pulled out if necessary. The traditional clips were developed to lighten the weight of the coat for swimming and protection to the joints and major organs from cold, but many owners opt for the plain lamb clip – the same length all over, because it is easier and more economical to maintain. The teeth need regular scaling. Poodles shed little to no hair and are good for allergy sufferers. (See description for different styles of clips.)

Issues with poodles include:

  • Some poodles can be sensitive and nervous if the owner does not provide proper balance.
  • They can be somewhat high-strung if not given the proper type and amount of exercise.
  • Be careful where you buy your puppy.  Purchase from parents you have met and liked, and even ask to see the grandparents if possible.
  • They tend to be quite reserved with strangers and should be socialized as a puppy.
  • They do tend to bark a lot without rules to follow and limits to what they are allowed to do.

Gigi, My First Poodle

My favorite dog growing up as a child was a silver miniature poodle named Gigi.  She was the cutest, smartest, sweetest dog in the world.  (I hope I can find a photo of her.)  I have several stories about this dog.  I will post some later.

I would like to find a small, miniature poodle.  Because of my fondness for Gigi, I am looking for a silver female.  Wish me luck in my search.

Crabbing

What you need:   bait cage, rope, zip ties, 1″ metal ring, bait, fishing liscense, bucket, munchies, chair, and free time. 

Jeff's Crab Net

Jeff's Crab Net

http://www.heff.net/crabbing/

I’m off to check it out!

Shrimp Boil

Yellow Jackets

After a long, hard day of fall cleaning in my flower beds, I was surprised when I uncovered a yellow jacket nest.  At the end of the day, I was removing the old, dry, “dog vomit” fungus that had gotten really bad in the mulch in the bed just outside our back door.  As I pulled up a large mass of mulch near the base of the dogwood tree, my scalp and forehead were attacked by an angry swarm.  I yelled, “RUN!! YELLOW JACKETS!!:  Son, Thomas, was helping me with the cleanup and was able to get away.  I stood up and swatted for a second and realized in a hurry that the “attack signal” had been sent to those in the ground, and I was fighting a loosing battle.  I ran in the house and closed the door behind me. 

I, of course, was still being stung by the little devils that followed me in.  I yelled for Joe to come help me quick.  As fast as he could move (seemed like slow motion), he was there helping me swat.  Thomas, in the meantime, made it in through the garage.  He, too, started knocking them off of me.  I stripped off my clothes and ran to the shower.  While I showered, Joe and Thomas tracked down and killed the ”jackets” that were in the house.   

When the dust settled, I was only stung 17 times – 5 on my arms, 1 on the leg, 1 on the stomach, 2 on the side of my face, and the rest on my scalp.  Thomas got 4 stings, and Joe got one during the rescue activity.  

Quick use of remedial actions minimized the damage:  (1) Scraping with credit to insure that no stingers were attached to skin,  (2) washing well with soap and water, (3) 500 mg ibuprofen, (4) one benadryl capsule, (5) application of hydrocortizone cream, (6) a good smearing of antibiotic ointment , (7) periodic use of ice, and finally (8) taping pennies (aka Pete Smith Treatment) over the three most painful bites.  I think the only remedy I didn’t use was poltrice using meat tenderizer – only because I didn’t have any. 

After a good night’s sleep, all is rosey today.  Most of the swelling has gone down, and only a few of the bites are warm and painful.  Joe attacked the “hole” with insecticide and later covered it with a poison drenched bucket.   

This link has suggested boiling (or soapy) water.  Heck, we might give it a try as well.  http://www.getridofthings.com/get-rid-of-yellow-jackets.htm

The aggressive, pestiferous yellow jacket.
The aggresive, pestiferous yellow jacket.